902HP @ 32psi w/4R70 through the Mufflers!!

Project BALROG:
2002 GT - Stroked 4.6 - Twin Turbo
720hp @ 18psi on Pump Gas

This is how the car sits as purchased with new 15x10's and 275/60-15 MT DR's
and 15x3.5's on the front.

This is how the car looks with the new 17x10's and 325/45-17 M&H DR's
and 17x9 and 275/40-17 on the front at the same ride height.

Twin 57mm making 720HP @18psi on pump gas.

6pt roll bar and leather seats
2V stroked to 5.1 liters
Livernois crank
Forged JE Pistons(dished) 9.5:1 compression
Manley forged rods.
Billet oil pump gears and trigger wheel.
Canton 8 quart pan, windage tray
Ported PI heads (p&p by HPP) The heads are ported and polished by Houston Performance.
Houston Performance Stage III Billet turbo cams.
Ported Victor Junior intake.
Intake has a 6061.com elbow and a 90mm TB.
Slot style MAF
Custom sheet metal valve covers.

Dual GT Supercar fuel pumps
Dual fuel delivery modules and KB boost a pump.
All braided fuel line.

Twin 57mm ported and polished turbos 57mm garrett t3/t4 .63ar.
All tubing has been Jet Hot coated and wrapped.
3 inch downpipes.
HPP Intercooler
Turbo Smart Eboost2 controller
EMUSA Waste Gates

Rebuilt 3650
Billet aluminum Fidanza Flywheel
RAM HD clutch
PRO 5.0 shifter
Rebuilt 28 spline axles
3.73s gears

Tubular K member
Tubular A-Arms
UPR coil overs
Strange 10 way adjustable
Weight jacker rear control arms and quad shocks.
Welded sub-frame connectors.
6 point cage (welded in and epoxy painted to match)

Leather race seats w/5 point harnesses (Seats are on factory rails and can slide)
Custom rear seat delete.
Boost gauge
Digital RPM and shift light
Wideband o2. I have two widebands, the hard mounted AM, and an NGK I was using for more reliable tuning.
Rear mounted battery, billet tray. Optima battery.
SCT Programmer

Custom Mach-1 hood with filled in Shaker
Brand new race stars with brand new Mickey Thompson 275/60-15 drag radials

Narrow rearend to fit tires inside the fenders -
Swap out the 3.73's for 3.27's -  DONE
Fully Built 4R70W from Silver Fox Racing - DONE
Baumann Shift Controller - DONE
Precision Industries multi-disc 2800 converter - DONE

AlkyControl alchy injection -  DONE
J&S Electronics SafeGuard Knock Sensor Kit -  DONE
Lean Protection Module - DONE
New Hot Side Piping - DONE
Lambo Door Hinges - DONE
Electric Vacuum Pump - DONE
Larger 60mm Billet Turbos - DONE
Diablo Tuner - DONE (This is junk)

MegaSquirt Pro - DONE
Flex Fuel Setup for 91oct and E85 - DONE

*****MORE BOOST and 900hp on E85. - DONE!!!!!!******

I didn't want the typical aluminum straps to hold the meth tank in place so
I fabbed up this bracket. It uses quick disconnect turnbuckles to hold the tank
in the tray. It just needs some powder coating.

Adding Dyanmat to the floor of the trunk and back seat area.

Adding Dyanmat to the floor of the trunk and back seat area.

Made an electric crankcase evacuation pump.
The original motor kept burning up so I bought a different motor then made an adapter to bolt it to the smaog pump housing.

This is the motor and the adapter bolted to the pump.

The Alky Control kit has two LED's: one for activation and one for low alchy level. I mounted them both
in the boost gauge pod.

I mounted the alchy PAC controller under the passenger rear seat.

In order to quiet the ride I cut the small poly bushings
off the UPR A-arms and made my own that are larger. These larger bushings make the suspension feel softer when hitting bumps.

A single M15 alchy nozzle for now should handle 750HP.
It's fed with a stainless steel line from the tank.

The SafeGuard knock detector will monitor knock in each cylinder.
If the unit hears knock it only pulls timing from that cylinder that is knocking.

Here is the back of the SafeGuard unit. This should work great when tuning the alchy injection along with any other tuning I do.

I mounted the SafeGuard knock controller and the Alchy Controller under the passenger rear seat.

Here is the beeper I am making that will replace the knock gauge.
If the Safe Guard hears any knock then the beeper will go off which allows me to focus on other things.

Here's the custom rearend Chris Neighbors built fo rme. He modified stock backing plates so I can still use the factory disc brakes. It's 1.25" narrower per side, 3.27's, 31 spline, etc..

I made a bezel to go around the E-Boost controller so it would fit
snug in the cup holder in the console.

The bezel fits real snug in the cup holder and
around the E-Boost controller gauge.

I made a resonator tube to cancel out the drone at 1800RPM but instead of the tube being a fixed length I made it adjustable. This is the "wall" that the sound waves hit and bounce back into the exhaust to cancel out the drone.

The threaded rod moves the "wall" inside the capped tube essentially changing the internal length of the resonator tube.

Since I made the internal length adjustable I can adjust it from 24" to 30" and currenlty it is at 27". Here is the finished product waiting to go in. Testing it at 27" cancels out all drone at 1800RPM and makes the car DAMN QUIET!
Here's one of the turbos: Supposed to be a 57mm T3/T4 w/ .63 AR and I hope to push 850HP out of the pair of them. If the pair of them are deemed capable of producing 850HP then I'll have the housings polished.
Cast Compresser Wheel.
Major dia: 74.8mm
Minor dia: 56.5mm

Exhaust Side.
Diameter: 56.5mm
Supposed to be a .63AR

This is the Fuel Log I needed to make. I didn't like how the Y-logs split
the exit lines apart. This log will run the exit lines parallel to each other.

This is the Vacuum Block I made. I didn't like all the vacuume lines running to the front of the throttle body so this will be mounted behind the manifiold and all vacuum/boost lines will be run to this block.

I couldn't find a t-stat housing that used a -20 fitting so I had to make one.

After removing all the hoses from the plenum I wanted to cover up the pipe plugs so I made a cover plate that will be hydro dipped in a black carbon fiber pattern along with the fuel rails.

In order to keep the top of the motor organized I made some stainless steel fuel lines to connect the fuel rails at the front. The back of the rails are spilt and connect to a Y-Block in the fenderwell. This whole setup should gaurantee that each injector sees the same fuel pressure.
 This is the fuel line support bracket that I made from a cut up fuel rail. This will support the lines so they don't vibrate loose.
 In this picture you can also see that I got rid of the ugly alternator support bracket and made some quick disconnect support rods instead.
 Fuel rail support.

If you're pondering some off the shelf turbos you should really give Brian a shout and see what he can put together specifically for your combo!
Brian Bissonette: bpe2013@hotmail.com
These units will make over 1000HP without even breathing hard!

Billet Compressor wheel measurements:
59mm at the inducer
76mm at the base of the exducer
80mm at the maximum diameter of the fins

This is a radiator petcock I made that will have a 2ft braided hose permanently attached to it allowing me to put the hose into a pan/bucket and drain the radiator without it spilling all over the frame of the car.
Thanks for the idea Curtis!

Dyno Graph - 91oct, Meth, 8* timing, 25psi boost

CG Fabrication headers with smaller 2.25" collectors which will
feed into smaller 2" pipes to the headers.