Tech Questions

Q:
"What does your kit do compared to other control arms?"

A:
I ask you this: Was the Factory Mustang suspension designed for Drag Racing? Of course not.
For this reason alone the factory geometry needs to be evaluated using Drag Racing Suspension Techniques. This kit was developed using the techniques that ALL chassis specialists use when Baselining a suspension. Hundreds of Mustang graphs plotting Weight Distribution, Wheel Base, Ride Height, Center of Gravity and Control Arm Angles were made to determine where the Instant Center NEEDS to be and the bracketry was designed around this optimum position. There was no guessing involved.

Q:
"What is this Instant Center?"

A:
This is taken from my web site Launching a Drag Car:

"The Four control arms on a four link type suspension when adjusted correctly for a particular car can help launch a car quicker and use less horsepower doing it. The goal in setting up a suspension is to apply just enough force to the tires to keep them from spinning and let the rest of the force push the car forward. Draw an imaginary line through the lower control arm forward. Now, draw an imaginary line through the upper control arm forward until it intersects the lower line. This intersection is called the Instant Center (IC). Now imagine the Center of Gravity (CG) of your car concentrated at the shifter handle. Where the IC (instant center) is located compared to the CG (center of gravity) is what determines how the force of the suspension acts on the car to get it moving. If the IC is too high then there will be too much energy wasted pushing the car skyward. If the IC is too low then there won't be enough force applied to the rear tires and the tires will spin. There are also variables if the IC is in front of the CG or behind the CG. Somewhere there is going to be a position (or more than one) that will apply just enough force to the tires to keep them from spinning and the rest of the force will push the car forward........"

KS

Q:
"What is Anti Squat?"

A:
This is taken from my web site Launching a Drag Car:

"This is a term used to describe how much the rear of the car will rise during launch. If a chassis has 160% of AS then the rear will rise drastically, planting the tires violently. By comparison if a chassis has 100% AS then the rear of the car will not rise and if a chassis has less than 100% the rear of the car will squat.*A common problem with high horsepower cars running too much AS is that the tires will plant the tires very hard for the first several feet but then start to unload the tires and spin when the chassis starts to settle. If your car does this, then look into the value of the AS......"

My kit is designed to keep the Anti Squat near 100% so the tires will not unload.

KS

Q:
"Also, wouldn't the correct adjustment settings on the
sway bar correct any problems of power distribution between the wheels, furthermore leading to the stability down the track?"

A:
EXCELLENT question!
Sway bars DEFINITELY help but do not necessarily cure stability issues. Stability stems from how/where the suspension reacts on the chassis relative to the Center of Gravity. It's the "Force" working through the Instant Center Relative to the Center of Gravity that aids in stability. Sway bars help keep this Force consistant from side to side. Imagine pushing on a refrigerator. If you push on the top of it you will get a different result than if you pushed towards the bottom. You will also have to apply a different amount of force for either situation to try and get the same result. This is an oversimplification but I hope you understand what I'm getting at. There are cars that have a sway bar that is properly installed/adjusted that still have stability issues.
KS

Q:
"So what's the proper way to setup the rear adjustable swaybar?"

A:
This was posted at www.Hardcore50.com by Shane Hill:

This is how David Wolfe taught me to set up a car with a sway bar:
1. Center rear end side to side
2. Center rear end in wheel well front to back
3. Set pinion angle using the harmonic dampner and pinon gear face as reference points
4. Put jack under kmember and lift evenly until front wheels are 2" off the ground with the driver in the seat (or at least that much weight there)
5. Adjust passenger sway bar link until driver door corner is 1/8" lower than same point on passenger side

If car goes left, shorten passenger link 1/2 turn
If car goes right, lengthen passenger link 1/2 turn

I've installed Wolfe's sway bar on 10 cars (from 12 second cars down to my own 8 second and 9 second cars) and adjusted them this way. Out of the 10, 7 needed no further adjustment. The other three only took 1/2 turn to make them run dead straight.

Shane Hill
NMRA DR#10046"

HTH's
KS

Q:
"In my theory, I am against using traction bars with Racing anti-sway bar set-up, I felt that they are working against each other. Am I correct? If not then can you explain to me."

A:
They actually work together not against each other. Sway bars work in a direction where the rear end pivots around the pinion axis and the sway bars prevent this rotation. Traction bars contain bushings or heim ends that still allow this rotation although the stiffer the bushing the more resistant the rear is to this rotation. An example would be if you were to have a True 4link suspension complete with heim ends BUT NO Track locator. This type of suspension will rotate around the pinion axis very easy AND move side to side because the heim ends are only preventing the rear end from moving forwards or backwards. Heim ends are made to allow this rotation. Now add a Track Locator and you just prevented the rear end from moving side to side but the rear will still rotate. Now add the Sway Bar and you prevented the rotation. With the 4link type bars each bar is allowed to move independently, w/o binding, of all the other bars. When you use poly bushings, the same thing occurs except they are not allowed to rotate about the pinion as easily so they are actually working with the sway bar not against it. A sway bar is one of the best things you can get so the car isn't wasting any energy twisting the car on the launch plus these units don't cause any binding. I highly recommend them.

HTH's
KS

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